Owners of older homes often hear that steel windows are past saving. In our experience, that is rarely true. Steel frames from the 1920s to the 1960s were rolled from heavy sections, and most of them still have plenty of life left. What wears out are the parts around the steel: paint, putty, hinges and seals.
What repair usually costs compared to replacement
Repairing a steel window that sticks or leaks is a fraction of the price of a new steel window of similar quality. Full restoration, with stripping, rust repair and reglazing, costs more but is still usually well below new custom steel units, which can also take months to fabricate.
- Repair: adjust, free, reglaze, replace hinges and seals
- Restoration: strip, derust, weld, prime, paint and reglaze
- Replacement: new custom steel or a different material
Replacing steel with aluminum or vinyl is cheaper still, but the frames are much thicker. On many facades that changes the look of the building, and in historic districts it may not be approved.
Signs a steel window can be saved
- The frame is straight or only slightly bowed
- Rust is on the surface or in limited spots
- The vents move, even if they are stiff
- The masonry around the frame is sound
Even frames with holes rusted through can often be repaired by welding in new steel. Replacement makes sense when large parts of the frame are gone, when the window has been badly altered, or when a new opening needs a new unit.
Energy and comfort
Restored steel windows with new weatherstripping are much tighter than drafty, neglected ones. Adding laminated or low-E glass, or an interior storm panel, closes most of the remaining gap with new windows.
If you are unsure, start with a survey. We look at each window and give you a written list of what can be repaired and what each option costs.
Questions about your own windows? Call (215) 555-0163 or request a free estimate. See also our steel window repair and steel window restoration services.